First day of surfing!

Remember that poem I wrote a couple blogs back?

It was kinda like that.  Except this time I had a surf board to manage too.  lol  I couldn't even sit on it very well!

I did paddle out past the waves though, but I think I cheated by waiting for the set to pass.  (The waves come in sets, and then there's a slight lull, who knew???)  It was still challenging to get out there though.  Jason said the waves were fairly big and to not ride the bigger ones.  So I avoided those like the plague.  (freaky)

As I was wriggling around trying to stay balanced I decided it was now or never.  So I turned my board and pointed it toward shore, got on my belly and started paddling.  The first 3 waves ran right under me despite my efforts.  But the 4th!!  WOO!  I rode that one on my belly, it was like body-surfing but WAY better!  I rode it almost all the way to the shore before I decided maybe it was good to get off the board before I broke the fins off of it.  lol

I decided to go back out and try some duck dives.... pshhhh yeah right.  How in the world do those work?  I dove under the wave just enough to get knocked off the board and swirled around a ton.  I tried a couple more times and then gave up.  Maybe I'm not diving deep enough?? I'll have to look up some tutorials online or something.

After getting tumbled a few times I decided to ditch the board and get acquainted with the sea.  Just the sea 'n me!  That was fun but oh my gosh.  Those waves crash over you and then tumble you and the current under them is doing something else and then there's another wave that crashes before you even get spit up from the last one.  Best thing to do is just no panic... apparently.

I plugged my nose once because that's my safety blanket in the water.  I got knocked under without grabbing a breath and then was held under longer than I wanted. So I pinched my nose shut.  But I pinched it too hard and my nose ring made my nose bleed.  Great!  Now I've done it, I'm gonna attract all the sharks!!  Time to get out.

It was a great first time, I wanna go again.  Maybe when the waves are a little less brutal.  Someday though this will be me:

www.surfgirlmag.com

In other news:  I got the job I wanted!!  I'm going to be a server at R + D Kitchen in Newport Beach! I'm stoked!  I gotta do my make-up and hair everyday though.  As my brother said, this jobs gonna make a lady out of me ;)